The Tent in Munich is exactly what I expected it to be. A big-top circus-style tent full of bunk beds. There are two tents, actually, in the one we stayed in (the "higher-end" tent" there were, maybe, 200 bunk beds. In the other (lame-o) tent people were just sleeping on whatever patch of floor they could find. The tent was also, like our entire experience in Germany, cold. Really cold. When we checked in (at 6am) and selected our bunks the reception guy told us that they hoped the Tent Heaters would arrive sometime that day. Boy, so did we.
We headed out for our first day after a considerable period of trying to figure out the public transportation system. Munich has an S-Bahn (Suburban railway), U-Bahn (underground railway), Trams and Buses. All of these systems (being German) run amazingly efficiently and quickly...once you understand which ones you want to use that is. But figure it out we did and, after a bite of breakfast we were off.
About one hour outside of Munich is Dachau, the site of one of the Nazi Concentration Camps from WWII. The camp has been preserved and turned into a museum and memorial site. Visiting this site was one of the things I really wanted to do on this trip. So it was amazing to me that as soon as we were on the train on our way there I had a really visceral and urgent desire NOT to go. I wanted to jump off the train at every stop. I wanted to run away and not force myself to think on these horrible events and how human beings could stray so far from Love. But I managed to allow those feelings to exist...and go forward anyway.
We arrived and had a really great tour guide who gave us a half hour introduction about Dachau. It was one of the first camps of its kind and the model for all camps after that. There were some incredibly inhuman men running the camp who would basically train the humanity out of any Nazi officers or soldiers who came there to be trained. It is really appalling the things that happened on these grounds. We've all heard it before and know it our minds how awful that time way...but to stand there and hear the individual stories of people who struggled and died right on this very spot...it was horrible and I hated it. But I am grateful, beyond words, that I got to have this experience and that these places still exist as a un-ignorable reminder to all of us..."Never Again."
We walked first through several of the camp buildings that has been turned into the museum. A lot of really fascinating information. (Too much information, actually. The museum really needs to be edited down...there is a lot of repetition and after awhile you just can't soak in more facts....). Then we went to "The Bunker" the building used exclusively for the worst kinds of torture. We also toured the barracks were 2000 people were crammed into bunk beds (wooden platforms really) designed for 200. We walked the grounds. Saw the fence that marked the edge of camp and several of the memorial sites and religious sites dedicated to healing the wounds of this place.
We had saved the area of the crematorium and gas chamber for the end of our visit. Just as we were walking over to the gate for that area they closed it and told us we couldn't go in. We had lost track of time and the whole site was being shut down. I was really disappointed that we didn't get to see that area of the camp...but I am sure it was just not something we were meant to see...so there it is.
After that we had some dinner (falaffel)...felt like a**holes for complaining about being hungry or cold or that our feet ached...or anything. We tried to shop for some warmer clothes for the cold night ahead... but only ended up buying a hat. (And Thank God for that hat!). Drank some hot chocolate by the campfire that they have outside The Tent every night. I think the 3 of us pretty much just starred into the fire that night and probably weren't very entertaining...
The next day we set out to see the actual city of Munich. Well, truth be told...there isn't all that much to see. We wandered around the big market, saw some big old places and gardens, went to the English Garden and saw the naked sun bathers, had a giant pretzel. Whoa! Back up there...saw the Naked sun bathers...in the middle of Munich...in Germany...no where near a body of water or temperatures conducive to naked sunbathing?!?!?! Yep. You heard right. For some reason in this normally very button town place...they all go nuders in the park. (Makes it more interesting I guess...)
We got lost trying to find the U-Bahn but finally did make our way back to The Tent and I think we were much more lively at the bonfire our second night. :) Although the boys were trying to show off how 'macho' they were by tending the fire. Clearly none of them have ever had to actually make a fire before because...well...they sucked at it. They would pile all of this wood on the fire and then sit around wondering why it was roaring...I would have to go in, re-arrange, blow on the fire...basic things and then...Boom! things would burn! (Thanks Mom for sending me to camp all those years!)
Our third day in Munich we took another day trip to a place about and hour and a half outside of the city. This is to one of the famous Bavarian Castles...Neuschwanstein. And it just so happens to be THE castle that inspired a certain Walt Disney when he was drawing his "Fairytale Castle." Cool, huh?
After a goodly amount of confusion over the train (part of the rail was down for construction so we had to take a bus the last bit...). We made it up to the castle. The Germans have a very orderly and precise system for getting into the castle. First you MUST take a guided tour. Second you must buy your ticket at the tourist office and your ticket will show a specific time when you are allowed to enter the castle. At your specific time you slide your ticket into the correct turnstile and if you are indeed within your specified time you get to go in. Wow...talk about the antithesis of an Italian system (AKA push and shove and see if there is a way you can get in without paying...).
We decided to be very whimsical and take the carriage ride up the mountain. It was whimsical, charming...quaint...all of those good Disney like things. In the tour of the castle we learned that it was built for a totally nuts-o King who only lived in it for about 90 days before his mysterious death. So only part of the interior or finished...and each room that is finished has a theme from a Wagner Opera, because Crazy King loved Wagner. There were some really amazing views of the castle and the castle from the outside is quite lovely.
Then it was back down the mountain, more forms of transportation than I can remember, a quick dinner and back to the campfire and The Tent. This was the night before the opening of Oktoberfest...so things were starting to reach a bit of a frenzy all over Munich and especially at The Tent where more than 300 people had checked in since we arrived 3 days ago. Wow.
Next Time: Something everyone should do once...and only once, in their lifetime.
Blessings,
KNL
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