Wednesday, June 13, 2007

Beach Bums

So I had promised myself after the icky breakfast the first day at the hostel I would go out for breakfast…but I thought I’d give their other option a try. (Note to anyone traveling to the one hostel in Positano…don’t give breakfast a second try,
its not worth it.) I then proceeded down to the beach where I paid 10 euro (ouch!) for a beach chair umbrella and use of bathroom facilities for the day. For as laid back as Italians are about most aspects of life they are rigidly controlled on the beach. Chairs are lined up in very precise rows and you must pay to rest the chair for the day…. strange, they seem to be quite organized when it comes to pinching pennies off tourists...

As I am sure you can surmise I had a very busy day of turning every 15 minutes, swimming, reading trashy magazines… life on vacation can be so rough.

Sasha had come down to the beach with me and for lunch we found a small market that made sandwiches in the back. It was probably the cheapest meal I have had in the whole time I have been away…and one of the best. Fresh bread, mozzarella and tomato sandwich, potato chips and a some type of peach/apricot fruit…I think the fact that it only cost 6 euro and I got to eat it on my beach chair while looking out at one of the most beautiful scenes I have ever seen served to enhance the taste of the food.

Positano bills itself as the place where sandals were invented. (I find this to be the biggest load of…well you know…tourist-scamming-propaganda I may have ever heard…) But they do have these awesome little shops were you go in and they hand make your sandals for you right there. You can pick out any style or combination of straps, colors, glue on sequins-y stuff…. amazing. I was tempted, but managed to
resist. (You’ll all be very proud to know that I also resisted buying several fantastic bags, a few other pairs of shoes to die for and enough jewelry to make
me have to pay extra weight charges on my trip home.)


After the brief window-shopping walk to work off lunch it was back to the beach laying grindstone. During the afternoon we chatted a bit with the family that
was laying out next to us and who incidentally perfectly fit the stereotype of people with moola visiting Amalfi (“You mean you can travel ALL over Europe just staying in hostels?? You have to share a bathroom?? With how many people?) We also got talked up by a local Positano boy (who obviously does this a lot). He told us that this was The Night to go out in Positano and as there were only two places, Next2 (where everyone starts the evening) and Music on The Rocks (where everyone goes for dancing later) we should come out and maybe we would see him there. We
weren’t all that impressed by his “what? I don’t usually talk only to girls traveling alone…this isn’t a line” speech, but decided to go out anyway.

Turns out, those are the only 2 places to go…but they are not nearly bumping with people. We (Sasha and I) had a few drinks with this guy (Jacomo?) and his friend and when it became clear to them that we were not going to be going home with them they lost interest and started talking to some other poor unwitting female tourists. Just as well…Jacomo was sleazy and the friend he brought along was old. I
hope none of you in the “She’s going to find the man of her dreams in Italy” camp got your hopes up.

On the way back to the hostel we stopped and had Dolce (dessert). The tiramisu that I had…was…to…die…for. All I can say is “Wow!” I could hardly speak while I was eating it. Fantastico!

The next day I had to check out of the hostel and start the trek back North to the Borgo. It was a long, long day of traveling. Here’s the cliff notes
version:

10am Ferry from Positano to Salerno
11-1:30 Wander around Salerno (more on this in a moment)
1:30- 3 Train from Salerno to Roma
3-5:45 Wander around Rome train station (not more on this later because it was as dull as it sounds)
5:45-7:10 train from Roma to Arezzo
7:10-7:15 Mad dash to catch Bus
7:15- 8:30 Bus from Arezzo to San Guisitno (More on this later)
8:30- 8:50 Drive from town up the mountain. Whew.

So firstly: the stop in Salerno. I picked up a map from the tourist office near the port and decided to walk down the nice pathway along the coast. Apparently, this is The place for couples to come to make out midday. I am not kidding. I could hardly
walk 30 yards without seeing another couple entwined on a park bench. Now, I don’t mind PDA’s (Public Displays of Affection, for you non abbreviators) but, honestly, some of these people needed to come up for air. I reached the point where I thought I was supposed to turn off for the train station and so I headed up the side street. I stopped at a little deli for a sandwich and some snacks for the train. This was a funny exchange where the worker didn’t know any English and I couldn’t think of the Italian word for soft cheese…

”No no Formaggio NON stagginato.” “Si, si questa e staginatto”
Translation: “No, cheese that isn’t aged/hard.” “Yes, yes this is aged cheese!

After the sandwich ordeal was settled I asked him to point me in the direction of the train…and again after much confusion, map pointing and gestures I realized I
was a very long way from the train station. I took to the streets again but with a bit more urgency in my step. Maybe 20 minutes later I was getting desperate. I saw no signs of a train station and it was getting awfully close to my departure time. I found a café with 2 men working and 4 standing at the bar. I tried to ask them to show me on my map where I was…Suddenly, I had 6 eager men pointing (in various directions) and contradicting each other loudly in Italian. Again after much pointing and explaining (one man even drew me a small map on a napkin) I was off. Hopefully in the direction of the train station.

Never let it be said that 6 random men in a café are anything other than dead useful. I walked right up to the train station and onto my train. Gracie!

Nextly: The bus from Arezzo to San Guistino. This was only interesting because my bus driver was one that I had had before and had noticed was especially cute (and without a wedding band). In fact, when Chance and I were on his bus before she kept cooking up questions I could ask him or ways for I could “accidentally” fall into his lap as we were getting off the bus. But the really interesting part was that for some reason the stop that I usually get off at in SG was closed that day and at the stop before the bus driver turned around and told me this and that I should get off here instead. I hadn’t mentioned where I was going that day or spoken to him at all…. he remembered me all on his own. (Don’t get too excited, who knows when I’ll see him again).

And since then I have been back in life at the Borgo. I had a touch of a stomach bug for the last two days, but am feeling much better now. We had a couple who came up last night for just one evening so it was really nice to have some new faces and conversations up here. Otherwise things are good.

I am re-starting a sadhana of 2 sets “The 15-minute Morning Set” from Heart Centered World and “Master Your Domain” from Kundalini Yoga by Shakta Kaur (the one with the clouds on the cover). These are both great sets that get your energy moving, balance the blood chemistry help to calm the mind and strengthen the nervous system. Additionally, “Master Your Domain” certainly cranks up the heat! They are both great sets, give them a try and let me know how they go for you.

I have my 3rd Gurumukhi lesson with SSK tomorrow. (Gurumukhi is the language that most of our chants in Kundalini Yoga come from and is the language Japji is in…I wrote about this once earlier if you need more info). I am getting better with the consonant sounds but I tend to mix up the vowels. It really is a beautiful language and I am glad I am getting to learn the original script.

In about 10 days I am going to take another short trip. I am hoping that I can find a cheap fare to Finland. I don’t particularly know why but it sounds like a really fun place to go visit for a few days! Keep your fingers crossed.

I guess that’s it for now. Miss you all…thanks for the email updates I really appreciate them!

Love and Blessings,

KNL

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